Nicholas Dupui's general store ledger records 48
different purchases of shalloon fabric -- one of the
most popular textiles in his wide-ranging assortment
of merchandise.
A garment lining, offered as "shalloon" in three
quality levels (2-1/2, 3, or 4 shillings per yard)
or as "blew shalloon" at 3 shillings per yard, this
fabric was most often purchased for use as a lining
for coats. Hence, one expectedly sees it being
purchased throughout the winter months.
While
still not the cheapest fabric, shalloon was known
for its versatility and relative ease in dyeing,
making it a fashionable choice of cloth for
everyone. Typically purchased in 3 to 8 yard
increments, we see it being purchased together with
buckram, broadcloth and garlix cloth. As noted
by one textile researcher, "shalloon was not a cloth
that was often exclusively used to make clothing. It
stayed relevant for the colonial period due to its
multiple uses for home décor and its ability to be
dyed easily for custom work."
A lightweight twilled
fabric of tightly woven wool or worsted, it was also
used in blankets, for drapery around beds, and for
curtains.
Another researcher notes:
"Shalloon (sometimes also called Ratinett)
is a fine, smooth, twill woven worsted fabric
frequently used for lining the coats of Officers and
Gentlemen. In effect it is a finer quality of serge.
In order to provide a smooth surface which is more
comfortable and makes the donning of the coat
easier, the surface is often given a glazed finish.
Overall, around 130 yards
of shalloon were sold at Dupui's store (and all of
it was sold between December 1743 and April of
1745). We note that one client purchased "the
remains of 4 yds. of Shalloon," while another
received a credit "by the Shalloon returned".