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ITEMS OF PERSONAL ADORNMENT --
THE BUCKLE
One of the more interesting commodities sold at
Dupui's general store was the ubiquitous and
relatively inexpensive buckle. It came in two
varieties: knee buckle and shirt buckle.
The knee buckles were purchased in the early days of
the store's history, while shirt buckles didn't make
their appearance until another decade had passed.
Fashion, like time, marches on.
So what exactly was a shirt buckle, and how was it
worn?
Shirt buckles are a sort of brooch that men wore to
close the long slit at the front of a shirt.
In many cases, worn on top of a ruffle; in other
cases, they close a fairly plain slit on the shirt
or are pinned to a neckcloth. The waistcoat is
unbuttoned far enough down the chest to display the
shirt buckle.
In this
1767 portrait of the son of Israel Pemberton, a
prominent Quaker and Philadelphia merchant, one
sees how the shirt buckle is worn.
At issue is the relative degree of opulence of
the shirt buckles sold at Dupui's store. Were
they plain or fancy?
Descriptions of shirt buckles are often found in
the "Proceedings of the Old Bailey" wherein
stories like the following (dated to 1763),
appear:
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One
gold shirt-buckle set with garnet
stones, value 16 s. and one shirt-buckle
set with glass paste … On Saturday
morning last, between 9 and 10 at night,
the prisoner came into my shop under a
pretence of buying a shirt-buckle; I
shewed him some, I saw him conceal one
in his hand, which was a garnet one set
in gold. |
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The story illustrates that pawnbrokers could be charging
up to 16 shillings for a jewel-laden ornamental shirt
buckle. Merchant Dupui, by contrast, only sold shirt
buckles for a maximum of 1 shilling -- clearly the
buckles at his store were designed to be utilitarian and
for frontier usage rather than ornate and fashionable.
As a pair of knee buckles were also sold by Dupui for a
mere shilling, they too would have been of the simple
metal variety.
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