The Dupui General Store Ledger:  1743-1793
 
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ITEMS OF PERSONAL ADORNMENT -- 
THE BUCKLE 

One of the more interesting commodities sold at Dupui's general store was the ubiquitous and relatively inexpensive buckle.  It came in two varieties:  knee buckle and shirt buckle.  The knee buckles were purchased in the early days of the store's history, while shirt buckles didn't make their appearance until another decade had passed.  Fashion, like time, marches on.

So what exactly was a shirt buckle, and how was it worn?  Shirt buckles are a sort of brooch that men wore to close the long slit at the front of a shirt. In many cases, worn on top of a ruffle; in other cases, they close a fairly plain slit on the shirt or are pinned to a neckcloth. The waistcoat is unbuttoned far enough down the chest to display the shirt buckle.

In this 1767 portrait of the son of Israel Pemberton, a prominent Quaker and Philadelphia merchant, one sees how the shirt buckle is worn.

At issue is the relative degree of opulence of the shirt buckles sold at Dupui's store.  Were they plain or fancy? 

Descriptions of shirt buckles are often found in the "Proceedings of the Old Bailey" wherein stories like the following (dated to 1763), appear:

  One gold shirt-buckle set with garnet stones, value 16 s. and one shirt-buckle set with glass paste … On Saturday morning last, between 9 and 10 at night, the prisoner came into my shop under a pretence of buying a shirt-buckle; I shewed him some, I saw him conceal one in his hand, which was a garnet one set in gold.  
 

The story illustrates that pawnbrokers could be charging up to 16 shillings for a jewel-laden ornamental shirt buckle.  Merchant Dupui, by contrast, only sold shirt buckles for a maximum of 1 shilling -- clearly the buckles at his store were designed to be utilitarian and for frontier usage rather than ornate and fashionable.

As a pair of knee buckles were also sold by Dupui for a mere shilling, they too would have been of the simple metal variety.



 
   

 
       
       
     
     
 
     
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